Patolas are woven in Patan in Gujarat. Hence its name. These are “Double Ikat sarees where both warp and weft yams are tie-and-dyed first before weaving. Thus it requires masterfulness, first in the dyeing to match up warp and weft to create the design and secondly in the weaving to produce the pattern meticulously. Popular Patola designs are paan bhat (pipal leaf design), chhabad (basket), kunjar bhat (parrot design), narikunjar bhat (girl and parrot design), papat kunjar bhat (elephant and parrot design), ratan chok bhat (jewel square design).
The Patola is imbued with mystical quality and was prized as gold. It was exported to Indonesia where it was thought-tp have magical qualities, and it was offered to the gods. Warriors wore a bit of it to battle as a protective talisman. Amongst the ancient people of Bali it fives on in their double-ikat called gerinsing to this day. *Today the Salvis are one of a couple of related families who weave this labour-intensive and amazing Patola in Patan. See Ikat.